What's the best primer for bare metal parts.

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  • stroker
    Registered Member
    • Oct 2012
    • 56
    • 1049
    • San Mateo, California

    #1

    What's the best primer for bare metal parts.

    We've media blasted the door hinges, latch's, brackets, etc, and I want to primer them before installation. I'm waaay out of date with paint products so would like some input on what you guys are using these days. I have spray guns--both internal and external mix, as well as hvlp. I know the primer should be compatible with the finish to be used, so another question is ; what type of paint are you guys using ? My last spray job was with acrylic laquer back in the late '70's. I think the EPA has outlawed what I'm used to.
    "High performance cars don't kill...low performance drivers do!"
    -Stroker
  • Rick_L
    Registered Member
    • Apr 2012
    • 4676
    • 571

    #2
    Epoxy primer is far and away the best primer to use on clean bare metal, which you should have too.

    In CA, they've probably effectively outlawed lacquer, though it's still availabe elsewhere. But the EPA has neutered it to where you don't want to use it anyway.

    Acrylic urethane is a modern paint system that combines the best features of the old time lacquer, and old time enamel. It lays flat, dries fairly quickly, and you can polish it but you don't have to.

    Your basic choice is between base/clear, where the clear is a urethane, and single stage urethane (single stage gets you color and shine in one product). The clear and single stage are the same chemistry, and similar durability. Base coats vary in their chemistry. Waterborne base is coming on now, but you still clear with urethane. The advantage of base/clear is with metallic and advanced custom paint like candy and pearl. Much easier to spray base and get an even finish without tiger stripes, mottling, etc. Then you get the gloss and depth with the clear. Single stage is better with solid colors, though you can base/clear them too.

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    • stroker
      Registered Member
      • Oct 2012
      • 56
      • 1049
      • San Mateo, California

      #3
      Thanks Rick_L for the update. In your experience is there one outstanding manufacturer that you prefer, or are they all about the same ? This project is going to take some time, so would like to use one product and stay with it.
      "High performance cars don't kill...low performance drivers do!"
      -Stroker

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      • 55Trifive
        Registered Member
        • Jun 2011
        • 13
        • 79

        #4
        Rick is right....

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        • chevynut
          Registered Member
          • Nov 2011
          • 11073
          • 115
          • Fort Collins, CO

          #5
          I agree with Rick. I used PPG DPLF epoxy on every square inch of my car, inside and outside, and all metal parts that won't be plated or powdercoated. If you have never bought epoxy primer or urethane paints, you're in for sticker shock. I think DPLF is right around $300 a gallon now with the activator. There are less epensive epoxy primers on the market, though. Most epoxies don't sand well and need to be followed up with a primer/surfacer. I used PPG K36.
          56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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          • Bakins
            Registered Member
            • Mar 2012
            • 118
            • 229
            • West Georgia

            #6
            Originally posted by chevynut
            Most epoxies don't sand well and need to be followed up with a primer/surfacer. I used PPG K36.
            So epoxy primer followed up with a urethane primer?
            bakins
            1957 Bel Air Hardtop
            C4 Suspension

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            • Rick_L
              Registered Member
              • Apr 2012
              • 4676
              • 571

              #7
              Yes, that's what the PPG K36 is. But there are many similar products on the market.

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